This trip started as a bucket list item since we had only ever flown through London but never stayed. As with all trips we plan, we first discussed what each person wanted to see and do. This trip was no different, with both of us wanting to visit London, me wanting to explore Bath, and him wanting to go on a Glenfiddich Whiskey Tour. Adding Scotland to the trip meant I had to include Edinburgh—obviously! Those cities created a rough outline of our travel path, which helped me build the itinerary. To break up the travel from Scotland to the London area, I added York to the trip.
The Flights:
We live in Southern California and managed to get a flight from Los Angeles to Inverness, Scotland, via Amsterdam on KLM. We upgraded to Business Class, and the KLM experience was top-notch: attentive service, excellent food, and cute little Dutch houses as souvenirs. Our flight from Amsterdam to Inverness was on a smaller plane that flew low enough to enjoy the scenery outside. The Inverness airport is a small regional hub, which made the immigration process remarkably smooth.
Typically, immigration can feel overwhelming with multiple flights arriving simultaneously, but Inverness was a dream. Our flight was the only one arriving around noon, and most passengers were locals or seasoned travelers who knew the drill. This significantly reduced stress for us and other non-locals.
As for our return flight, it was canceled, but we rebooked on essentially the same flight the next day. Thankfully, Delta covered the extra night at the hotel (since our Airbnb couldn’t be extended) and meals for the day. We made lemonade out of lemons—see how we took advantage of our extra day in London below.
Inverness, Scotland:
We took the local bus from Inverness Airport into the city center. Using public transportation always feels a bit nerve-wracking at first—I worry about missing the stop or getting off in the wrong place—but so far, our luck has held! My philosophy is, “If the locals can do it, so can we.”
Upon arrival at the city center, navigation apps helped us find our way up the stairs connecting the business district to the residential neighborhood and Ardconnel House, our B&B. It was well-located, with rooms offering different bed configurations (double beds, twins, etc.) and serviceable en suite bathrooms. Details and photos were available on their website.
After settling in, we explored town and made a to-do list. Although we weren’t hungry after eating on the flight, we scoped out early dinner options and figured out where to grab coffee and breakfast for the next morning. We had an early whiskey tour planned, so breakfast at the B&B wouldn’t be an option. We ended up at The Mustard Seed, a highly recommended spot that lived up to the hype with excellent food and a charming atmosphere.
Whiskey Tour of Speyside:
We arranged a private whiskey tour with David from Scenic Routes, whose service I cannot recommend highly enough. He was responsive to communication beforehand and crafted a fantastic itinerary that combined our “must-sees” with local “should-dos” at a reasonable rate.
Our tour included stops at Loch Ness and Elgin Cathedral, visits to the Speyburn and Glenfiddich distilleries, and lunch at a charming café (whose name we sadly didn’t catch). Later, we visited the Cardhu Distillery, founded by two women and now part of the John Walker brand. This stop also gave us a chance to see a Highland cow—a “hairy coo”—though, despite our best efforts with carrots, he wouldn’t come close. The tour wrapped up at GlenAllachie Distillery, where a friendly barman explained the art of tasting and appreciating good whiskey.
After the tour, David’s local recommendations led us to dinner at the Heathmount Hotel, followed by breakfast the next morning at Cup & Cone, a delightful café within walking distance of our B&B.
Edinburgh, Scotland:
We traveled to Edinburgh by train and made our way through the bustling city to our accommodations at the Grassmarket Hotel. The staff was amazing, and the location was ideal for being in the center of the action. Be aware, though, that it can be noisy when the pubs in the square close, particularly when the local football (soccer) team is playing.
After dropping off our luggage, we walked along High Street (the Royal Mile), exploring the closes—narrow passageways between buildings that often lead to hidden courtyards. We dined at La Bistrot, a quiet restaurant located inside the French embassy building. The fantastic food, superb wine list, and peaceful atmosphere were a welcome break from the lively pubs and crowded streets.
The next day, we took a self-guided audio tour of Edinburgh Castle, which was a treat, especially for history buffs. To explore the rest of the city, we hopped on a Big Bus tour, which provided historical insights about the Old and New Towns while giving our feet a much-needed rest. Breakfast at Pirlous was excellent before we caught a cab to the train station for our trip to York.
York, England:
In York, we stayed at Hedley House Hotel, just a 7-minute walk from the train station. The location was fantastic, and the staff was wonderful. Our room featured a king-sized bed and a generously sized en suite. The hotel’s same-day laundry service (for only £10) was a lifesaver since we only travel with carry-ons.
While wandering the medieval city center, we discovered an evening service at York Minster, allowing us to enjoy the stunning cathedral without the need for same-day tickets. Dinner that night was at Hole in the Wall, a cozy pub with excellent food and a quintessential English atmosphere. We enjoyed it so much that we returned another evening!
The next day included more exploring, afternoon tea at Betty’s Tea Room, and a walk along the old city walls, which offered great perspectives of York’s landmarks.
Bath, England:
Instead of braving the London transfer, we took a slightly longer but more relaxing route to Bath. On arrival, we checked into Eight, a boutique townhouse hotel. Our room in their sister location on the quieter Abbey Green Square featured a comfortable double bed and a well-appointed en suite.
Bath felt like stepping onto the set of Bridgerton or a Jane Austen movie—utterly charming. We had dinner at Garrick’s Head and treated ourselves to the best hot chocolate ever at Mrs. Potts Chocolate House (which I indulged in multiple times).
The next day, we joined a small group tour by Mad Max Tours, which included stops at Castle Combe, Lacock, Stonehenge, Avebury, and the Westbury White Horse. The tour was incredible and struck the perfect balance of history, culture, and sightseeing.
Dinner that night at Yak Yeti Yak, a Nepali restaurant, was one of the trip’s highlights. The next morning, we enjoyed brunch at the Pump Room, followed by a visit to the Roman Baths and a day of exploring sights like the Circus and the Royal Crescent. We wrapped up our Bath stay at The Raven, a fantastic pub for resting our feet and chatting.
London, England:
Arriving in London was overwhelming, as expected. Navigating the train-to-tube transfer to our Chinatown Airbnb was an adventure, but once settled, we hit the ground running. Over the next few days, we checked off the London Eye, Changing of the Guards at Buckingham Palace, Horizon 22, Tour of London, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and Westminster Abbey.
Tips for London:
- Buy tickets in advance; many attractions let you enter earlier than your time slot—just ask. Also verify if your ticket if for the correct line, the lines at the London Eye were so long, but they were to buy tickets vs. those who had already purchased tickets.
- For the London Eye, a morning slot offers better lighting for photos of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.
- Free viewing platforms like Horizon 22 (22 Bishopsgate) and the Sky Garden offer stunning views. Set your reminders to book tickets in advance once they become available. Alternatively, climb St. Paul’s Stone Gallery (376 steps) for an intimate city view or go all the way to the Golden Gallery (528 steps) for the more expansive views.
- Include a river trip on your itinerary—the Big Bus Tour’s ticket includes a riverboat ride, which was a highlight, but there is the UberBoat as well.
- Explore London with ease using the Tube, buses, UberBoat (River Bus), and black cabs. Skip the Oyster card—just tap your card or phone by enabling the Transit Card option in your wallet. Pro tip: For buses, tap only when boarding, but for the Tube and UberBoat, tap on both entry and exit. It’s that simple!
At Westminster Abbey, the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries are worth the additional £5 for the exhibits and unique views of the abbey. At St. Paul’s Cathedral, we splurged on the Public Triforium Tour for a behind-the-scenes look at the building’s middle level, models, spiral staircases, and historic library. TIP: Mr. Bibi has normal seasonal allergies, but could only tolerate being in the library for a few minutes before he had to step out into the hallway.
When our flight was canceled, we visited the Palace of Westminster and were lucky enough to see both Houses of Parliament in session.
Most meals were at pubs, but highlights included Ye Old Cheshire Cheese (near St. Paul’s) and Dishoom in Covent Garden. For a special occasion, we celebrated at Lutyens Grill in the Ned Hotel, one of Europe’s top-rated steakhouses.
Final Thoughts:
The trip was amazing, with no major issues and countless highlights. If we were to return, we’d likely skip London and Edinburgh to focus on smaller cities. While we loved both, their size and crowds can be overwhelming. Instead, we’d use Inverness as a hub in Scotland and spend more time exploring York and Bath. Two to three days in each just wasn’t enough to see everything!
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